UPDATE: 5 new recommendations from our 2nd Japan visit.
Visit an onsen town in the winter, and see the snow monkeys.
We can’t get enough of them and always like to mix a nature/country-side visit with city visits when we have time. Shibu Onsen town is nice, and if you visit in the winter, it’s close to the famous Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park.
2. Mori Building Digital Art Museum: teamLab Borderless.
I could spend ALL day there in a surreal dreamworld. Tickets sell out fast, so book early!
3. Try late night katsu curry with melted cheese.
Sounds a little odd, but it’s quite tasty, cheap, and fast.
4. Take a sushi or karate class.
Airbnb’s Experiences are pretty great to meet some locals and learn something new. We did a class by a long-time chef who taught us to never waste a grain of rice. I also learned I’m pretty shoddy at karate but it was still fun!
5. Stay in a capsule hotel for a night.
The Millennials was a good spot that had the fastest wifi we’ve ever experienced, and it was super clean and modern. Included options with projector screens, and their beds wake you up by slowly inclining and gradual lights on. Neat!
Just realized some of these new recommendations are robot specific. Ok, sure. Japan is still about robots, but they do it so well! (ahem: toilets that wash your butt and play music to cover the sounds?!? Yes, please.)
Our First Japan Visit: April 2016
12 night itinerary: Kyoto (4 nights), The Japan Alps (3 nights), Tokyo (5 nights).
KYOTO (Old+New Japan): This is a nice intro into Japan for those who want to experience some city life but also the cultural sites of old Japan. You're more likely to see a geisha or kimono-wearing resident here.
Top sites:
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove: Where else can you practice your Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon moves, hah?! It's a peaceful stroll and includes great photo opps. There's also a temple nearby if you want to check out a perfectly manicured garden, complete with coy fish.
Fushimi-Inari-Taisha: The gates go on and on and on. It's an easy hike and full of history. We saw many adorned in traditional kimono attire here, but it can get crowded since it's a prime tourist attraction.
Path of Philosophy: If you're lucky to visit during cherry blossom season (early April), this is apparently one of the best spots to enjoy it. We unfortunately just missed the season, but we got some nice views of the nearby village at sunset as we enjoyed our lovely walk. Apparently, it got its name because one of Japan's famous philosophers used to do daily meditation along this path on his commute to Kyoto University.
Kyoto Train Station: Not only for surprisingly good food, but the shopping malls are great! There's also many participating stores with tax-free shopping, which has a much easier process than tax-free shopping in Europe. The shopping here is less chaotic and more accessible than Tokyo. And, in Japanese fashion, the station is clean and efficient.
Pontocho Alley: This place is a magical place in the evenings. It's probably what you imagined old Japan to be like -- tiny walking street with traditional shops and restaurants. We stumbled upon this sushi spot (Kapa Zushi) which was pretty good and relatively affordable, but there are several others. Tripadvisor also suggests Sushi Tetsu. You can get ramen and shabu in this area too. Look out for geishas!
Top eats:
Katsukura, Kyoto Station: Apparently I have been eating katsu all wrong. The pork was so juicy and tender, breading was so light and non-greasy, salad was so crunchy and citrusy, miso was so savory and filling, and the shrimp was as big as my face!!! You make your own sauce by grinding up sesame seeds and adding the semi-sweet, Asian-fied, bbq-like sauce. Bottomless veggies, rice, and soup too! My belly hurt so good!! Can't believe this deliciousness can be found in a train station.
Side note: we had some trouble finding it, so we asked a couple people passing by. They didn't know where it was, but they were SO helpful and went out of their way to help us (with no agenda, but just to do the right thing). People in Japan are such nice, honest people! This is very different from some of our experiences in India. More on that later.
Ramen Sen No Kaze: Don't come hungry, because you'll probably have to wait. We got there around 2pm and still waited about an hour to grub. The noodles and broth weren't something to write home about, but the char siu pork was ah...mazing. It was pan seared, like caramelized pork belly. All ramen shops should take note on the meat preparation.
Tip: While you're waiting, across the restaurant is a little vintage clothing shop. Shopping in Japan is so great! Ben picked up some pearly-snapped flannels for less than $5/pop. This neighborhood is adorable and easy to walk around too.
Tofu: We hear Kyoto is known for its tofu because of all the Buddhist temples. Upon exiting the gates at Fushimi Inari-Taisha, we saw a little pop-up food area with seating outside. The fried tofu was probably the best I've ever had. Crispy on the outside, smooth on the inside, and nice sauce and garnish to compliment it. Great snack-to-go before we continued exploring the town.
Onigiri Rice Balls: Who says you can't eat cheap in Japan!? Get these at any convenience store for an affordable meal or a tasty snack! There are so many kinds to chose from, including a variety of ramen and mochi options. They'll heat up your meal for you too.
Tip: onigiri is best devoured within a few hours of purchase or the rice gets hard. Top it off with a can of chu hai (carbonated shochu) while you're at it.
THE JAPAN ALPS (The Ultimate Onsen Experience): This was by far one of our favorite experiences out of all the places we traveled. Kyoto is a nice mix of old and new Japan, but this is where you'll really feel like you arrived in a time machine (but with wifi, vending machines, and robotic toilets). We would definitely return again.
Book a ryoken/onsen combo experience in Takayama region for at least 2 nights, since it's a bit of a trek to get out there. We booked Shinzansou. There are many options, but if you can get one with onsens (hot springs) surrounded in nature, DO IT. Many fill up fast, so try to book early. There's nothing like having 24/7 access to natural hotsprings surrounded by snow capped mountains and a rushing river.
THE BEST 10-course Japanese meals:
Get the meal plan! You'll indulge in kaiseki, traditional multi-course meals, and they change it up a bit each night. The sushi is so fresh (I didn't know I loved amaebi so much). The most tender beef I've ever had just melts in your mouth. The grilled fish is caught fresh from the river. All of it is beautifully prepared, even with edible bows on the pickled veggies. We also enjoyed our chu-hai and sake. Ben may have enjoyed his sake a little too much, but hey! We were celebrating our 2 year wedding anniversary!
Pick up some onigiri rice balls, ramen, or drinks at the 7-11 in Takayama town. The meal plan can include both breakfast and dinner, but no lunch, and there's nothing around (but you won't want to leave). The meals are pretty filling, so this may not be necessary anyway. And they have a vending machine with drinks.
Onsens/Ryoken accommodations:
There are men, women, and co-ed hotsprings available. They also offer 3 private hot springs for you and your guests that you can reserve when you check-in. Indoor ones are also available.
And yes, you'll probably see a couple people in the nude, but follow the onsen etiquette, and you'll be fine. A wrap is provided for women in the co-ed ones.
You live in a Japanese robe and sleep on tatami mats with heavenly bedding, like sleeping on a cloud. If you're able to get a room facing the front, you can fall asleep to the sounds of the rushing river with a view of the Indiana Jones-like bridge you walked across to get there. We loved it so much, we were lucky they were able to extend our stay another night. Even though we were moved to a smaller room, it was worth it! Seriously, stop reading this, and just book it now.
Getting there:
Take a bullet train from Kyoto (or Tokyo) to Takayama and transfer on a bus directly to the onsen. You can book your bus transfer when you get to Takayama. The help desks at the transit stations are all super helpful and can ensure you book the right tickets. The Japanese are very punctual, so try not to be late. If you have time before your bus ride, stop in town to eat soba. It's supposed to be top notch among these parts. Some people opt to drive, but we found public transit was easy and affordable.
TOKYO (THE LAND OF ROBOTS AND ORGANIZED CHAOS): A city that is alive and crazy (in a good way). There's so much to do and areas to visit, so here are just our top favorite Tokyo experiences (in no particular order):
Oedo-Onsen Monogatari Hot Springs:
Can you tell we love our hot springs? This is a theme park for onsens. It's not as serene as The Japan Alps, but still a cool experience. It's themed Old Japan, inclusive of restaurants and bars with people walking around in their yukatas (Japanese robes). Upon arriving, you get a wristband to purchase all your goodies, you pick out your robe, change, and get unleashed into a theme park (barefoot) with indoor/outdoor hot springs (split up by gender, nudity required), spa services, carnival games for the kids, and Japanese food and libations.
It's also open 24/7!! This came in handy when we missed the last train of the evening and "had to" return until the next morning. They have sleeping pods/rooms you can rent, but like many, we opted to take a nap on the tatami mats!
After waking up from my nap, I couldn't find Ben, so if this happens to you, try using the Google Translate app to help you.
Karaoke:
Being Asian, I was practically born with a microphone in my hand and laserdiscs of karaoke melodies playing in the background. So, Japanese karaoke was on our list to do. Unlike other karaoke experiences, you get free costumes to wear!!
So, a panda and a cop walk into a karaoke bar...
Ride & Stay Near the Trains:
The transit stations are so good. Ask a train attendant if there are any specials going on for rides. We got a 10 day pass that gave us unlimited rides on certain trains, and that ended up being a better deal than getting a JR pass for us, which we picked up at the Bic department store. The train stations are super clean, and while crowded, it is very organized. People actually line up in a single-file line before entering the trains. The bathrooms are clean, with some even playing waterfall sounds while you "go." The trains are also a great place to people watch.
Lodging tip: We stayed at Airbnbs and it was super helpful to stay near a train station because that's the prime way to get around. Also try to get a mobile hotspot. Most of the Airbnbs offer them which saved us many times, since finding places in Japan can be tricky.
Parks:
If you need a break from the crazy pace, hit up Shinjuku Gyoen National Park. There's lots of open space for naps, reading, or perusing the beautiful gardens. They'll also play music to wake you up from said nap.
Tsukiji Fish Market:
I hear it's moving locations this year, so check to see if it's still in town. They also don't open everyday, so check the hours online. There will be crazy crowds right outside of the wholesale market with restaurants and food vendors. We ended up going into the wholesale market area to find cheaper, fresher goodies. The salmon sashimi (straight from the fishermen) was the freshest we've ever tasted. We bought a big tray of uni for only $7.70 too! The market has unique options, like grilled scallops with uni on top (which was just OK). Try to go early (before 8am) to see the fish market bustling, and even earlier if you want to try to go to the tuna auctions. If you miss the experience, just order sushi take out and watch Jiro Dreams of Sushi on Netflix.
All the sushi we ate was pretty good, even the $1/piece places were better than lots of places we've had in the US. If you can splurge, there are many amazing omakase places, like Jiro's, but we didn't do it. You usually have to book months in advance, and it's very expensive ($300 per person, I believe). We hear his son's place is a good alternative as well.
Shopping:
We enjoyed the late night shopping of randomness at Don Quijote (open 24 hours!) and the vintage finds of the hipster neighborhood, Shimokitazawa. The Japanese are also extremely clean. When you try on clothes, remember to take off your shoes and put on the head cover. They don't want your stinky germs on the clothes, ok!?!
The nightlife is Tokyo is pretty rad. We especially loved this area of Tokyo with the tiniest bars you'll ever see, each themed and only seats 5-7 people. There's usually a cover charge or drink minimum. Shinjuku is also a great area to stay in since it's central to some hotspots and has nightlife and restaurants nearby.
Shibuya Crossing:
Touristy but neat. Go to the top floor of the Starbucks at the intersection and watch the cars go by. You'll see what I mean by organized chaos. That timelapse feature on your phone comes in pretty handy here.
Tokyo Dome Baseball Game:
People love their baseball in Japan, and it's BYOB! Hit up the 7-11 before coming here. They don't allow cans/glass containers, but they'll pour your drinks in to-go cups for you to indulge inside. You can even bring food! You can buy tickets at convenience stores. The machines are all in Japanese so ask a clerk to help you purchase. Try to buy actual seats (vs. standing), since you'd have to get there pretty early to ensure you get a good place to stand. Note: If you have kids, there's so many kid-friendly things to do like Tokyo Disneyland. Haven't been but Japan is a safe and clean country to visit.
Things we didn't get to do, but hope to save for next time:
Cherry Blossoms: just missed the season when we arrived, but supposed to be magical.
Sumo wrestling tournament: also wasn't available when we went, but what a neat tradition!
Okinawa: heard it's like a different country. There's a documentary called Happy noting that the highest number of centenarians live there. What makes them live so long?! Perhaps the community-centric culture and the kind-hearted people. And Mr. Miyagi's from there! I'd love to take a karate class from where it was born. Wax on, wax off!
UPDATE: check out more recommendations from our 2nd Japan visit.
Mori Building Digital Art Museum: teamLab Borderless. I could spend ALL day there in a surreal dreamworld. Tickets sell out fast, so book early!
Take a sushi or karate class. Airbnb’s Experiences are pretty great to meet some new locals and try something new.
Visit an onsen town in the winter, and see the snow monkeys. We can’t get enough of them and always like to mix a nature/country-side visit with city visits when we have time. Shibu Onsen town is nice, and if you visit in the winter, it’s close to the famous Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park.
The Robot Restaurant. It was like Medieval Times hosted by Sanrio characters, transformers, and samurais — with glow sticks. Not recommended if you’re prone to seizures. Yes, it’s touristy, and the food was forgettable, but the show was unique and something we just HAD to check off the list.
Stay in a capsule hotel for a night. The Millennials was a good spot that had the fastest wifi we’ve ever experienced, and it was super clean and modern. Included options with projector screens, and their beds wake you up by slowly inclining and gradual lights on. Neat!
Just realized those last 2 recommendations are robot specific. Ok, sure. Japan is still about robots, but they do it so well! (ahem: toilets that wash your butt and play music to cover the sounds?!? Yes, please.)
Let me know if you have any comments/questions. I love talking about travel!
